Harvest is approaching, and although we take regular analyses from the various different parcels, this is a time of the year when a daily presence among the vines is necessary, to see how they are progressing, and most important, to taste the grapes. Analyses in the lab can tell you a lot of things, but they do not replace the winemaker’s feeling, derived from tasting the grapes in the vineyard. Noval is now 145 hectares under vine, so there is a lot to visit.
This is in the Roncao parcel of the vineyard, which overlooks the Douro river. We tried experimenting here a few years ago with cabernet Sauvignon grapes, just to see what it might do for making unfortified Douro wines. I have a very open mind about trying varieties from elsewhere, but I do think it is vital that they adapt well to their new circumstances and fit in as Douro grapes. For example, Syrah works very well in the Douro, and takes more of a Douro personality than a strictly varietal Syrah character. Cabernet Sauvignon however, does not fit in at all, and remains stubbornly varietal, sticking out like a sore thumb in blind tastings. So we decided to graft our Cabernets last year with Touriga Franca, a beautiful Douro variety that makes great Port and red wine. This photo shows how successful grafting can be. This vine was grafted only last year and here it is, laden with Franca fruit.
You can see the bandage on the base of the vine where the grafting took place.
To return to Syrah, which I love in the Douro, so much so that we released this year our first pure Syrah Douro wine (2007) from Noval, which we called Labrador after António’s dog. Here is a picture of some Syrah, strategically placed to show that it really does grow beautifully beside the Douro river…