The first tasters have begun to arrive in Bordeaux to taste the great 2010 Vintage

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First echoes from Bordeaux itself have until recently been fairly muted, I think because people have hesitated to say that we have in our hands for the second year in a row a very great vintage year. But it is unquestionably the case. I thought it might be useful to try to give a personal impression of the different personality of the two years, specifically in the case of the wine at Château Pichon-Longueville Baron.

There are parallels in the past, notably in 89 and 90 when two great years followed in succession, then as now with quite different personalities, and with fervent partisans of one year or the other according to personal taste. Obviously, people have asked about the parallel with these years when one considers 09 and 10, and I think it is fair enough to make the comparison, but with the significant difference of the way we work in the vineyards today, the great properties accepting significantly lower yields and in general making much stricter selection between Grand Vin and second wine today. I believe that both 09 and 10 can be compared with the great pair from 89 and 90, but I am quite convinced that they are significantly greater in quality.

It is fortunately not my job to write tasting notes of wines on a regular basis: we have very skilled and dedicated journalists for that, but for what it is worth I give here my appreciation of the Château Pichon-Longueville Baron 09 and 10 wines, in the hope that the kind of words used to describe the wines will at least give a feeling for the stylistic differences between the years. I don’t feel the need to say which I prefer, for the good reason that I am not sure yet that I know, but I am quite certain that these are two very great years for Bordeaux, and I am very glad, along with all the team here, to have lived through them.

Here is a picture of Jean René and me enjoying our deliberations on these two great wines.

Château Pichon-Longueville Baron : Jean-René Matignon, Technical Director (left hand), Christian Seely, Managing Director (right hand)

So here is the result of my deliberations with Jean-René Matignon and Daniel LLose as we tasted the two wines side by side and attempted to define the difference in style between the two

Château Pichon-Longueville Baron 2009: “Silky, velvety, very harmonious, balanced and long. Full unctuous, sweet, subtle ripe fine fruit, both powerful fine and delicate. Voluptuous, racy, classy.”

And Château Pichon-Longueville Baron 2010: “ A very lively fresh structure, tonic, strong muscular tannins, but fine and balanced, wild intense red and black berry fruit, explosive, deep complex and long. We have rarely seen so much richness allied with so much freshness. Extraordinary equilibrium, astonishing for its concentration.”

I hope this gives some idea of how we feel about these wines. Clearly I love them both. We shall now see what the world has to say. And then we shall hopefully be able to enjoy retasting and comparing them both for decades to come.

For a fuller understanding of what made the 2010 Vintage so special, I suggest that you make a link to the following address:

http://bordeauxgold.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/2010Report.pdf

This will lead you to Bill Blatch’s vintage report, which is a remarkable analysis of the year and of the wines. I think it is quite brilliant and I thoroughly recommend it. For those of you who do not know Bill, he is a much liked and greatly respected Bordeaux negociant with an encyclopedic knowledge of Bordeaux, its wines, and the characteristics of each vintage year, thanks to his decades of meticulous note taking. This report on the 2010 vintage will give you some idea of the depth of his knowledge and passion for Bordeaux and its wines.

A very short trip to Tokaj last week to work on the blend for the 2008 Aszú wines of Disznókő

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It is a lovely year. We made a very small quantity of a very fine Six Puttonyos, but overall the equilibrium seemed just great for a Five Puttonyos. I loved the balance of this year, the wines were fresh, intense, long and fine. Definitely a vintage to look out for when it comes on the market.

We profited from the occasion to taste a vertical of six Puttonyos from Disznókő, going back to 1993. The picture shows the remarkable colour variations from year to year, which reflects the strong style difference that each harvest brings. They were all delicious of course, but the stars for me were 2002, lovely pure intense and long, but needing time, as much as you can give it, in the cellar; 2000, completely different style, fresh spicy, open and seductive, great to drink now; and the extraordinary 1993, still a young baby.

Disznoko Tokaji aszu 6 puttonyos