We have already been through the vineyard for a first trie of unbotrytised grapes to make the S de Suduiraut, but today was the first day of the main event, the picking of the botrytised grapes.
Here is a picture of the first bac full of partially botrytised grapes, with, if you look carefully, the chateau of Suduiraut in the background. We have one of the finest potential harvests on the vine that I have ever seen, with wonderful ripe grapes, beginning to turn golden brown, just ready for the arrival of the botrytis. These first days we go through the vineyard to pick the bunches where botrytis has arrived early, but we are still waiting for the main event, the full blown arrival of Botrytis Cinerea, provoked by misty autumn mornings followed by clear cool sunny days, ideally with a good wind in the afternoon to dry things out! A lot of things need to go right in Sauternes to make a great year, but so far 09 is shaping up just fine.
I was thrilled when we bought Romaneira to discover that we had nearly five hectares of white wine grapes planted on serious terroir. Mostly Malvasia Fina and Verdelho (or Gouveio as it is called in the Douro). This is actually quite unusual, as white grapes have not been taken very seriously in recent decades in the Douro, as their destination was white Port. But some of these varieties have fascinating personalities, with high natural acidities, and are capable of making very fresh and complex white wines even in the extreme heat of the Douro Valley. My wife Corinne, who is an oenologist specialised in white wines, has taken on the project of making white wine at Romaneira. Here she is checking out the Malvasia Fina in the vineyard, one week before harvest.
After the initial success of the Romaneira Verdelho and Vinho Branco blends we decided to plant out some hectares of Noval with white grapes, so Noval will be entering into competition with Romaneira soon as a serious Douro white wine producer.
And here, one week later we see the same grapes arriving at the winery. The most perfect white wine grapes we have seen here.
Harvest is approaching, and although we take regular analyses from the various different parcels, this is a time of the year when a daily presence among the vines is necessary, to see how they are progressing, and most important, to taste the grapes. Analyses in the lab can tell you a lot of things, but they do not replace the winemaker’s feeling, derived from tasting the grapes in the vineyard. Noval is now 145 hectares under vine, so there is a lot to visit.
This is in the Roncao parcel of the vineyard, which overlooks the Douro river. We tried experimenting here a few years ago with cabernet Sauvignon grapes, just to see what it might do for making unfortified Douro wines. I have a very open mind about trying varieties from elsewhere, but I do think it is vital that they adapt well to their new circumstances and fit in as Douro grapes. For example, Syrah works very well in the Douro, and takes more of a Douro personality than a strictly varietal Syrah character. Cabernet Sauvignon however, does not fit in at all, and remains stubbornly varietal, sticking out like a sore thumb in blind tastings. So we decided to graft our Cabernets last year with Touriga Franca, a beautiful Douro variety that makes great Port and red wine. This photo shows how successful grafting can be. This vine was grafted only last year and here it is, laden with Franca fruit.
You can see the bandage on the base of the vine where the grafting took place.
To return to Syrah, which I love in the Douro, so much so that we released this year our first pure Syrah Douro wine (2007) from Noval, which we called Labrador after António’s dog. Here is a picture of some Syrah, strategically placed to show that it really does grow beautifully beside the Douro river…