A seminar between work and pleasure in Mosel

L’équipe de direction d’AXA Millésimes travaillant durement  au cœur de la Moselle

AXA Millésimes management team hard at work in the heart of the Mosel

I was in the Mosel this week for the annual “réunion plénière” of our company.

Each year we take all the winemakers of the AXA Millésimes properties, together with our principal commercial and administrative managers, to a wine region where we mix business with pleasure (as in fact we usually do in this particular business) by holding our internal meeting, exchanging information about what everyone has been doing over the past year, but also visiting a few wine producers from regions other than our own.

It is a great opportunity for everyone to catch up -as you can imagine, the team from Hungary do not often meet the team from Portugal during the course of the year- but also a chance to broaden our horizons by immersing ourselves in a wine world that is a little different from the ones we know.

Last year we had a great visit to Jerez. This year was the turn of the Mosel.

Daniel LLose et Thomas Loosen dans le vignoble

Daniel LLose and Thomas Loosen in the vineyard

Jacques Devauges du Domaine l’Arlot et László Mészáros de Disznókő au dîner dégustation Joh.Jos Prüm

Jacques Devauges, of Domaine de l’Arlot, and László Mészáros of Disznókő at the Joh.Jos Prüm tasting dinner

Marielle Cazaux de Château Petit-Village et António Agrellos de Quinta do Noval

Marielle Cazaux of Château Petit-Village and António Agrellos of Quinta do Noval

Jean-René Matignon, de Château Pichon-Longueville, analysant avec sérieux d’excellents Riesling avec Pierre Montégut de Château Suduiraut

Jean-René Matignon of Château Pichon-Longueville seriously analysing some great Riesling with Pierre Montégut of Château Suduiraut

The photographs may give the misleading impression that every one is just having a good time. But I am sure it is obvious that in order to understand fully a wine region it is necessary to taste extensively the wines that are produced there. And so we make a big effort to do this.

It was in fact a great learning experience. This is perhaps the moment for me to admit that the German wine labelling system has not always been entirely clear to me. I am sure that I am in a small minority here, which is why I hesitate to make this admission. I have so often opened a Kabinett expecting it to be dry, only to find it fruity and sweet, or a Spätlese expecting to find it fruity and sweet and finding it dry or half dry that I have always been a little confused about how it works.

Dr Llosen

During our first tasting at Dr Loosen I had a sudden moment of illumination when in one magic phrase Thomas Loosen made everything clear. I had never understood before (and this is rather embarrassing to admit) that the terms Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese etc. refer to the richness of the must after pressing and before vinification. After that the winemaker can vinify them dry, semi-dry, or sweet. This was an astounding revelation.  I felt that I once was lost, but now was found, was blind, but now I saw. All my previous confusing experiences now had an explanation.

And I am full of admiration. I find it quite glorious to have created a whole complex system of classification that gives no idea whatsoever to the consumer what the wine will taste like. Brilliant. In a world where people are always trying to simplify what is complex and fascinating (think restaurant wine lists that depressingly try to classify wines as “rich and fruity” “full bodied” “dry and refreshing” – which I normally take as a sign that I might be in the wrong place), I find the opacity of this system, and the degree of hard work that is necessary to begin to understand it, very refreshing.

Dégustation Kesselstatt

Kesselstatt Tasting

Or I did. I discovered later in the trip that as from 2012, this classification system will only be allowed for semi-sweet or sweet wines, so the possibility of a dry Kabinett or a dry Spätlese will no longer exist. I admit to being a bit disappointed by this. Having mastered the full extent of the system’s complexity, I was slightly taken aback to hear of a simplification. But perhaps I misunderstood.

Be that as it may, we tasted some wonderful wines. Both dry and semi dry, sweet and very sweet. My own preference has always been for a spatlese with some residual sugar, a low level of alcohol, and ten to twenty years’ bottle age. We tasted some magnificent examples of these wines, at very generous, informative and extensive tastings at Loosen and Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, and finally at the Joh.Jos Prüm tasting dinner at the end.

 Daniel LLose avec Cédric Loiseau de Mas Belles Eaux, notre vignoble du Languedoc

Daniel LLose with Cédric Loiseau of Mas Belles Eaux, our Languedoc vineyard

Voici Pierre Montégut du Château Suduiraut dégustant de façon très studieuse Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt

Here is Pierre Montégut from Château Suduiraut tasting very studiously at Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt

Christian Seely et Katharina Prüm

Here is a photograph of me being bewitched by the beauty and charm of Katharina Prüm who very kindly came to dinner with us to show a selection of her great wines. (They have not started making red wines as far as I know: we finished with a glass of Quinta do Noval Vintage Port).

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It was a wonderful visit and I think we all came away with a glowing impression of the quality of the wines and of the warmth and friendliness with which we were received.

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Vintage Tour 2011 in the US

A few days ago, I was on tour in the US to launch the 2011 Vintage Ports. This was a joint exercise with the Taylor Fladgate Group. It was a real pleasure to go on tour together and to share our enthusiasm for this great Vintage with the journalists, members of the trade, and Port lovers from all over the States who came along to the tastings.

We visited Los Angeles, San Francisco and New York, in each city putting on a tasting, the aim of which was principally to show the great wines of the 2011 Vintage, but also to show some of the Vintage Ports of the past decade. The 07s and the 03s shone, even if the 11s were the stars of the show.

With David Guimaraens
With David Guimaraens
With Adrian Bridge
With Adrian Bridge

As the photographs show, the ambiance was great. I think we all enjoyed the opportunity to show our wines to these very distinguished and enthusiastic tasters. The 2011s seem to have caught the collective imagination of the wine world, and with reason: I am sure it is one of the greatest Vintages ever.

Presenting the Nacional 2011
Presenting the Nacional 2011

But the strong showing of the back Vintages we were showing helped to remind everyone how great these wines can be, and not just in the very greatest years: the 04s and 08s, which we were showing at the Quinta do Noval and Quinta da Romaneira tables, and neither of which were general declarations, were lovely, in both cases rather good to drink now. I say this perfectly objectively, as I have almost none of either of them left. Anyone who has is sitting on something rather good.

This was the final leg of a round the world trip as I had been in Hong Kong on Bordeaux business before that. One thing I reminded myself of on the journey: there are some fantastic beers being made in the US today. There are few things more agreeable than a day spent tasting Vintage Ports, but at the end of such a day, a pint of some microbrewed ale exactly hits the spot – I have heard Australian winemakers describe this precious moment as “a PH adjustment”. I enjoyed one or two PH adjustments with David Guimaraens during the trip: all Port lovers will understand.

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2011 Vintage Port

I am in the Douro right now, where the weather is fine and sunny and spirits are high. On Monday, the Institute of Masters of Wine organised a fantastic tasting in London of all the declared 2011 Vintage Ports, which confirmed that we have a great Vintage on our hands.

At Noval, we have declared the Quinta do Noval Vintage 2011, and also, for the first time since the 2003, the Quinta do Noval Vintage Nacional, which is of course a thrilling event. At Romaneira, we have also declared Quinta da Romaneira Vintage 2011.

I was here a couple of weeks ago finalising the blends with António Agrellos, and we took some pictures in the tasting room. As they show, we were feeling rather cheerful about the wines. It is always a great moment when you know that you have an outstanding Port wine that you can declare as a Vintage Port, and at Noval it is a rare and exciting event to be able to declare the Nacional as well. There have been a few blog posts about the Nacional over the past few months, following the big tasting we did in New York, and I also wrote a while ago about the tasting of the Nacional 94 with the Wine Spectator, also in New York. So no need to go into detail today about what the Nacional is or what makes it special. But it is worth pointing out that the 2011 is the first time we have wanted to declare a Nacional since 2003, so it is an exciting event. A lot of people asked me at the time of the 2007 Vintage declaration why there was no Nacional 2007. The answer is that I resolved when I first started working at Noval (luckily for me the 94 was my first vintage) that we would never declare a Nacional that was not clearly outstanding. The wine that came from the Nacional parcel in 2007 was very good but not outstanding, and so we did not declare it. We had no such doubts about the 2011.

Here I am with António in the tasting room at Noval with Ausenda Matos, the oenologue of Noval.

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And these next two pictures give an idea of how cheerful we were feeling about the wines we were tasting. I love the wines from 2011, and now having tasted the wines from our neighbours and friends in the Douro at the IMW tasting, I am sure that it will go down as a great historic Port Vintage.

Christian Seely and António Agrellos

Christian Seely and António Agrellos

I think we are tasting the Nacional in this picture. António and I have together been responsible for the 94, 96, 97, 2000, 2003 Nacionals. We were beginning rather to miss it, and it is wonderful to have again a great Nacional declaration in our hands.

The Quinta do Noval Vintage is quite lovely, I think one of the best ever, and I am sure that the Quinta da Romaneira Vintage 2011, of which we made only 700 cases is in fact the best Romaneira ever. My tasting notes are probably not impartial enough, but I give them here just for the record. Fortunately I am not a journalist or I would not last long, but I just give you in note form the impressions these wines made on me.

Quinta da Romaneira Vintage 2011

Intense bright fresh seductive fruit. Great elegance and harmony. Complex profound aromas. Something wild about it, typical of Romaneira.

Quinta do Noval Vintage 2011

Very seductive. Lovely fresh floral notes on the nose, many delicate complex aromas. Violets. Wonderful purity and fresh precision of fruit. Intense concentration, but delicate at the same time. Fine long tannins.

Quinta do Noval Vintage Nacional 2011

Very strong distinctive personality. Tannins powerful reserved and fine. Very intense long and concentrated fruits, explosive in the mouth, balanced and with great freshness. Brooding presence.

But don’t take my word for it. Read what the journalists will say, or better still, buy some.

Finally, one photograph of António Agrellos, which I think gives an idea of the immense intelligence and artistic flair that he has brought to bear on the making and blending of the great wines of Noval over the past 20 years. I tend to travel round the world and do the talking, and maybe get some of the credit for these wines, but he is in fact the person who makes them, and I am very lucky to have the pleasure of working with António, both at Noval and at Romaneira, and to have been able to offer to the world as a result a few exceptional Vintage Ports over the past two decades, of which I think the 2011 may be one of the greatest.

António Agrellos

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Primeurs Tasting week for 2012 Bordeaux – Château Petit-Village (VIDEOS)

Christian Seely

« Precise purity of fruit, harmony, balance – a very attractive wine »

If you have trouble watching this video, view the web version here

Marielle Cazaux, Technical Director of Château Petit-Village

« Smooth and velvety, with chocolate notes, flowers, and very fresh fruit »

If you have trouble watching this video,view the web version here

Sarah Kemp, Decanter

« A delightful, very natural and attractive wine»

If you have trouble watching this video, view the web version here

etiquettepetitvillage

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Primeurs Tasting week for 2012 Bordeaux – Château Pichon-Longueville Baron – part 2 (VIDEOS)

Jean-René Matignon – Technical Director of Château Pichon-Longueville

“2012 is a delicious wine, which is first characterized by a very precise fruit at the aromatic level, very ripe red and black fruits. Concerning the texture of the wine, the tannins are silky, very smooth, fine, balanced and above all there is a beautiful acidity that is present but not dominating.”

If you have trouble watching this video, view the web version here

Chris Kissack – www.thewinedoctor.com

“Château Pichon-Longueville is a very good wine. Lots of lovely dark but fresh aromas on the nose, nice texture in the mid-palate which is a strength in this vintage I think, and really good balance to it.”

If you have trouble watching this video, view the web version here

Château Pichon-Longueville Baron

Château Pichon-Longueville Baron

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