These pictures show the harvest of the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes on the plateau at the heart of the Pichon Baron vineyard. Very old vines on deep beds of gravel give Cabernet of wonderful finesse and purity. With the very low yields that we practise here, and the precision of the work that takes places in the vineyard, beautiful wine is made from these vines every year, but some years are more special than others, and it looks as though 2009 will be one of those. Summer was hot and dry, and by the beginning of September we were beginning to be just a little worried: was there enough water in the soil for the vines to continue to do their all important work in the last few weeks to bring the Cabernets to full maturity? And then we had a weekend of rain, that put everything right. Slowly and steadily over the past few weeks the Cabernets have been ripening before our eyes. We knew that the Merlots were spectacular, but to make it a great vintage the Cabernets had to come round. And they did. You will see the results in the 2009 wines, which I think will be among the greatest of Pichons.
Here you see the grapes being harvested on the Cabernet plateau with the towers of Pichon in the background. Watch this space: the 2009s will be something special.
Harvest is approaching, and although we take regular analyses from the various different parcels, this is a time of the year when a daily presence among the vines is necessary, to see how they are progressing, and most important, to taste the grapes. Analyses in the lab can tell you a lot of things, but they do not replace the winemaker’s feeling, derived from tasting the grapes in the vineyard. Noval is now 145 hectares under vine, so there is a lot to visit.
This is in the Roncao parcel of the vineyard, which overlooks the Douro river. We tried experimenting here a few years ago with cabernet Sauvignon grapes, just to see what it might do for making unfortified Douro wines. I have a very open mind about trying varieties from elsewhere, but I do think it is vital that they adapt well to their new circumstances and fit in as Douro grapes. For example, Syrah works very well in the Douro, and takes more of a Douro personality than a strictly varietal Syrah character. Cabernet Sauvignon however, does not fit in at all, and remains stubbornly varietal, sticking out like a sore thumb in blind tastings. So we decided to graft our Cabernets last year with Touriga Franca, a beautiful Douro variety that makes great Port and red wine. This photo shows how successful grafting can be. This vine was grafted only last year and here it is, laden with Franca fruit.
You can see the bandage on the base of the vine where the grafting took place.
To return to Syrah, which I love in the Douro, so much so that we released this year our first pure Syrah Douro wine (2007) from Noval, which we called Labrador after António’s dog. Here is a picture of some Syrah, strategically placed to show that it really does grow beautifully beside the Douro river…